One of the problems with Yorkshire is that there is probably a bit too much to do for a family holiday. Historic attractions: take your pick with castles, abbeys, museums coming out of your ears. Beautiful walks: literally hundreds of miles over moor, chalk hill, coast, farmland. Beaches? Choose from miles of sand and rollers to secluded smugglers coves. And so on. You get the point, anyway.
So if you only have a week’s holiday you might be facing some tough choices. And hence this series….let’s take some similar visitor attractions and horse race them using my entirely subjective and not at all scientific scoring system
This week – stately homes within easy reach of Deer Park. Castle Howard probably needs very little introduction – it’s one of the 10 most visited country houses in the UK. Burton Agnes, though, is much less well known and that’s a shame because it is enchanting.
Getting there from Deer Park
Castle Howard – 24 minutes along the A64 (can be awfully slow in summer) then along the spectacular park drive (involving two sets of fake walls and excitingly narrow gatehouses). 8/10
Burton Agnes – 29 minutes across the Wolds (make sure you’ve got a map/satnav). Rather last minute signposting for the entrance to the house on the left when you eventually get there. 6/10
History and architecture
Castle Howard – ‘Lie Heavy on him Earth for he, Laid many a heavy load on thee.’ This is the building (along with Blenheim) that earned Vanburgh his epitaph. It’s massive and a massive festival of the baroque: if you like coronets, urns, pilasters and cherubs, fill your boots. If that makes it sound ugly, it’s not – it’s a hugely impressive building which fits its location very well. But it certainly sets out to be awe inspiring rather than welcoming. 8/10
Burton Agnes Hall. A completely different (and much earlier) kettle of fish, built in the very early 17th C to replace the the original medieval manor house, built in 1173 and which still sits next door. Fabulous example of Tudor architecture: think warm red brick, stone dressings, gable roofs and symmetrical facades. So pretty, and a much more human scale than Castle Howard. 9/10
Interiors and collection
‘Hands up the girl who burnt down the east wing last night’
Castle Howard – for such a huge house, the tour of Castle Howard’s interior is surprisingly short. There’s a good reason for this. During the second world war the house became, briefly, a girls school, and in November 1940 a terrible fire destroyed nearly a third of the building and a lot of the interior. There is still a boatload of treasures and artwork to see, but perhaps not to the extent that the exterior promises. However, some of the set pieces, including the amazing view up under the dome, are pretty incredible. 7/10
Burton Agnes – the interiors at Burton Agnes are a well blended result of four centuries of collecting art. Beautiful Elizabethan carving and plasterwork, Georgian furniture and furnishings and a pleasing collection of more modern art all sit happily together in a house that feels very comfortable for its size. Highlights include the beautiful screen in the hall, the plasterwork ceilings in the Queens bedroom and the amazing long gallery, one of my favourite rooms anywhere, ever. 9.5/10
The gardens and parkland
Castle Howard – fabulous parkland, with huge lake, fountains, fun structures like the Temple of the Four Winds and a stunning rose garden. Out of spring/summer it’s more park than garden but what a park! 8/10
Burton Agnes – a much smaller site which combines yew topiary and formal gardens with a lovely walled garden, full of both planting and games for the kids (checkers, quoits, chess, snakes and ladders etc) which made it the only garden I have ever been too with my tribe where they complained because I wanted to leave. 8/10
Activities & attractions
Castle Howard – scores heavily for family, with their little ‘land train’ and an adventure playground that has often prevented us from going any further into the park. Both cafes have good, if rather pricy, food, and in the summer you can take boat rides on the lake. There is always a crammed calendar of activities – concerts, country fairs, Robin Hood days, markets and even a triathlon. 9/10
Burton Agnes – a smaller house with a more limited range. Lovely little cafe (portions too big for the tables though!) a small playground for the little ones and regular music, children and history events. 7/10
Conclusion: if you have children in your party you might find the variety of adventures at Castle Howard irresistible and you will have a wonderful time. However if you have time to stare and ponder and take in some really satisfying art, I’d recommend going a bit off the beaten track and slowing down a bit at Burton Agnes.
Or try both. It’s your holiday 😉